Frank's Way or the Highway

Published on Wednesday, 13 August 2008 22:22

Written by Michelle Wescott

Franklin Davis and his wife Linda run a tight ship at their Jessup, Maryland, diner. Maintaining Frank’s Diner, a 1959 Kullman “Princess” model , is no easy task, but the Davises have it down to a science. Frank has used his military know-how to organize and maintain the spotless kitchen. His everything-in-its-place approach continues into the storage area, where every item is marked and dated, regularly checked and restocked so that no favorite special or menu item will run out. As for the employees, Frank knows who will make it and who will not before their first shift is over. The man clearly has his systems in place. Even when dealing with customers, Linda says, “Frank is always right. If you want it your way, go to Burger King.”

But customers don’t go elsewhere; his way will do just fine. It’s precisely this type of reliable service, friendly atmosphere and deliciously made food that keeps them loyal. Regulars like the “Waffle Man” and the “Applesauce Man,” known to the chefs by their consistent orders rather than their names, have been eating in this diner since it opened in 1995. Then there’s the lady who requested a Reuben Fedex’d to her distant home, and the pregnant woman who drove up from Virginia to satisfy her craving for Frank’s food.

 

The Davises won’t reveal all of their secrets, but they admit that hard work, fresh, high-quality food, and a nostalgic atmosphere all play a role in running a successful diner. But Frank’s also offers some signature foods that sets the place apart: homemade biscuits, grilled meat-loaf sandwiches, and Linda’s exquisite two-layer cakes (customers often request a slice before eating their meal). Other popular menu items include a selection of fresh seafood and a variety of sides that come with each entree. For example, the rib dinner brings with it a choice of starch, vegetable, bread, and either soup or salad, all for roughly ten dollars.

The diner has a set of working jukeboxes in its booths and an almost completely original dining car area. The Davis’ bought and moved the diner to their home town of Jessup from its original location in Carney’s Point, New Jersey. Formerly known as the Olympia Diner, its terrazzo floor, inlaid with the Kullman boomerang logo, is complimented by the newly refurbished counter and tabletops, stools, and seat covers.

Frank has had many years of experience serving customers. In the army, where he and Linda met, he worked in the kitchen and as a manager of food services. Combining his military discipline and love for cooking and serving food, he had long dreamed of running his own diner. Linda has been there, supporting him, all along. She took a leave of absence from her previous job to help him open the diner, but then decided to stay after realizing how much time and effort it would take.

Frank’s Diner wasn’t always the well-oiled machine it is today. The couple struggled for two years with zoning and finance hold-ups related to the purchase and relocation of their diner. Even after they resolved those issues and worked to get the diner up and running, they still ran into problems. On Mother’s Day of 1995, during opening day, Frank’s couldn’t have been more chaotic. “We ran out of everything,” Linda recalled. “We had to close up at two in the afternoon to clean up and start over again. The computer system had only been installed the night before. Waitresses were punching in orders that they didn’t have, just so they could get food out to their customers.” The Davises closed their restaurant for two days so that they could restock and reorganize. It was a good learning experience; they’ve been running a smooth operation ever since.

Frank and Linda have considered purchasing a second diner to operate, given their growing success. Unfortunately the lack of affordable land in a good location keeps them in Jessup for now. If they do find what they are looking for, Frank plans to start up the new diner while Linda main-tains Frank’s. She is a strong believer in doing things herself to make sure that they get done right. “No one will run it like you will,” she says.

The Davises both love the experience of running a diner, but acknowledge that it’s not for everyone. Linda believes it’s a long-term commitment involving a lot of personal sacrifices. For instance, she has no pictures with family or friends during the early years when she and Frank worked to build the business. “It becomes your life,” she says. “You’re working 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.” But she still believes that running the diner alongside her husband has been a rewarding experience. Looking back, she wouldn’t change a thing. But she does have a few suggestions for others who are interested in opening a diner. Start out by working for other owners in order to understand how a restaurant runs and the amount of work that’s needed, she recommends. But most importantly, Linda believes that diner owners need love what they do. “You won’t make it unless you do it yourself.”