Tour of the Petrogiannis empire

Published on Thursday, 03 June 2010 11:16

Written by Randy Garbin

Tour of the Petrogiannis Philly Diner Empire

Last night, I took a writer for Philadelphia Magazine on a little tour of Michael Petrogiannis’ burgeoning Philadelphia diner empire, stopping at the Mayfair, Melrose, and Country Club Diners. What we found frankly surprised and often delighted me. Most of the interior renovations that we found were either applied lightly or appropropriately. At the Country Club, for instance, the extensive interior renovations corrected, in my opinion, a big mistake made by the Perloffs when they ordered it from Fodero back in 1967. Instead of three separate enclosed rooms, the diner now features one large, stylish open area more fitting of the diner experience.

I ordered a meal at the Mayfair for the first time since the transition. The diner served up a well-​prepared broiled tilapia and what I think was real mashed potatoes. I’m unsure only because I know that the technology behind instant mashed has advanced greatly since I swore them off years ago. The excellent service topped off the entire experience there. Another thumbs up.

Finally, I’ve only visited the Melrose a handful of times, and while I understand its iconic status in Philly, the less-​than-​welcoming experience the Kubach family gave to camera-​wielding diner fanatics always put a sour taste in my mouth. The diner also had a peculiar practice of putting total strangers together in their tight semi-​circular booths. The Kubachs explained that this fostered a more convivial atmosphere in his diner, but we all know it was to increase the rate of turnover. The renovations thankfully removed that bit of nonsense and replaced them with more traditional booths.

On this visit, I stuck to a simple slice of banana cream pie, which I have to say rivals anything out there. Actually, no. It’s without a doubt the best piece of banana cream pie I’ve ever had the joy of eating. A light, creamy and tantalizingly tart filling embraced by a perfect crust, I have to return with Mrs. Roadside, an expert baker in her own right, to confirm my experience.

I know that I’ve in the past railed against what Michael Petrogiannis has or might have done to these three great diners, but so far he’s either improved or generally maintained the quality these institutions have been known for. Mr. Petrogiannis, my cup is raised.