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By Jerry Soucy
 There's nothing special about the West Concord Super Market's outward appearance. A large green-and-white striped awning shades the sidewalk, and multi-paned windows run along the store's full length. It's the same kind of single-story Main Street storefront found in many other towns and neighborhoods.
Like most markets seeking to optimize the flow of shopping traffic, there's a large door labeled "ENTER," while another several feet away is just as clearly marked "EXIT." Though neither swings open automatically, I've never seen anybody enter or leave through the wrong one.
But when you walk through the door at the Wesconc Super (as my kids have dubbed it), you enter a timeless place that is thoroughly without pretense. The narrow aisles and worn wooden shelves are stacked high with everything you could possibly eat or use to fix a meal.
You'll find staples like meat, bread, and beer, but the difference at Wesconc Super is quality and care: all of the beef is certified Angus, the hamburger is freshly ground in small batches several times each day, and the same friendly faces have stood behind the counter for over 30 years. The bread selections include artisan fare from a local bakery, with day-old loaves available at half price. My favorite beers are the Concord Pale Ale and Concord Junction Porter, both brewed just around the corner from the store. They're prominently featured in aisle-end displays as well as ready-to-go from the cooler.
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Service with he personal touch not found in the mega-stores: Peter Mandrioli (right) dispenses sage advice to a grateful customer.
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There are also selections properly considered specialty, gourmet, or just downright weird – like Lifeboat Tea from England (five pence from every sale is donated to the UK's non-profit rescue service); and Second Nature Dog Litter (use your imagination).
I've walked into Wesconc Super in search of sesame tahini for a Middle Eastern recipe, and I've stopped in for some inspiration to satisfy unexpected guests, and I've never left the store empty-handed. The prices at Westconc Super are competitive with the area's faceless food-o-dromes – and the value is far superior.
The folks at Westconc readily admit they're not sure exactly how much of anything they have on hand. This casual approach may seem contrary to the strict inventory control that is the cardinal rule at modern supermarkets. But third-generation owners Peter and Paul Mandrioli know exactly what they carry, precisely where it's located, and how well it sells. Slow-movers are eventually relegated to a half-price cart by the dairy case. Their own sharp eyes and years of experience are better than any electronic scanner and computerized inventory system, and that's the key to what makes Westconc Super, well... super.
"We're somewhere between a small convenience store and a huge supermarket," Paul explains. "Lots of people just run in for a single item, but plenty of our customers use a basket or cart to pick up their week's shopping."
"We have customers who still carry charge accounts," Peter adds. "Our single biggest customer came in the other day and spent over $200. Sometimes she does that a few times in a week. I'll send her a monthly bill later on."
Westconc Super began when John Mandrioli, Sr. opened West Concord Fruit in 1919. In 1935 the senior Mandrioli expanded into a full-service grocery, and moved across the street to the store's current location hard by the rail line that carries commuters back and forth to Boston.
John Jr. and Peter joined their father after returning home from WW II. John Jr. sold his interest in 1985. Brothers Peter Jr. and Paul took over from their father, whose presence in the store continued right up until he passed away in March. His portrait will join those of his late father and brother on the wall above the large assortment of spices and seasonings, where they can continue to look upon their longtime friends and customers.
"There aren't many third-generation businesses of any kind left," notes Paul. "That's usually the generation that wants nothing to do with the family business."
But Peter, Jr. and his brother share a genuine enthusiasm for keeping Wesconc Super vital, assuring its continued service as a valuable community resource. "We'll keep this up unless some disaster happens," Peter declares.
One clear indication of their commitment is the quality and variety of their small produce section. It's often difficult for a 3,000-square-foot store like this one to stock fresh fruits and vegetables, since distributors favor higher-volume outlets. But the Mandriolis consistently make the extra effort.
Another sign is the long line that forms every lunch hour, when the meat counter is transformed into one of the area's best takeout spots. The tasty fare includes both traditional sandwiches made with fresh breads and superior cold cuts, as well as daily specials such as homemade meatballs and thinly-sliced warm roast pork loin, to cite just a few. There's even a respectable self-serve salad bar just a few feet from the counter, along with a beverage cooler stocked with just about every soft drink, from Snapple to Ting.
In addition to their large and ever-changing selection of locally-made products – the Mandrioli's store is currently one of the few retail outlets for the Cool Dog ice cream treat developed by a West Concord couple and now a favorite at Fenway Park – they quietly support a variety of youth and charitable organizations throughout the community.
The Mandriolis even continue to 'round' when making change. I was sure that Peter Sr. had made a mistake when he returned a quarter from the dollar I used for a 79-cent purchase on my first visit years ago. "You don't want a pocket full of pennies," he told me with a smile.
Peter and Paul Mandrioli's commitment to tradition, while they keep an eye on changing times and tastes, is solidly based on a deep respect for what their grandfather, uncle, and father built over the years. Their efforts mean that new generations of shoppers will continue to find things only available at the West Concord Super Market – a comprehensive selection of great food, reasonable prices, consistently warm and personal service, and a vibrant sense of history and continuity.
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